应用化学 ›› 2023, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (6): 820-832.DOI: 10.19894/j.issn.1000-0518.220351
收稿日期:
2022-10-27
接受日期:
2023-03-27
出版日期:
2023-06-01
发布日期:
2023-06-27
通讯作者:
越皓,戴雨霖
基金资助:
Xing-Yu TAO, Xuan HU, Tong-Chuan WU, Fei ZHENG, Hao YUE(), Yu-Lin DAI()
Received:
2022-10-27
Accepted:
2023-03-27
Published:
2023-06-01
Online:
2023-06-27
Contact:
Hao YUE,Yu-Lin DAI
About author:
daiyl@ccucm.edu.cnSupported by:
摘要:
马齿苋属药食同源中药材,有着极高的药用价值和食用价值。近年来,马齿苋在日用化工领域,尤其是在化妆品领域应用甚广。许多化妆品公司开发的面膜、精华、护肤水和洁面乳等美容产品均添加了其活性成分,但相关的化妆品主要添加了马齿苋醇提物,而添加其水提物成分如多糖、多酚的美容产品较少。新剂型的出现丰富了马齿苋在化妆品经皮递送系统方面的研究,未来可以开发如脂质体、传递体和β-环糊精等新型载体。此文简要地对马齿苋的活性成分、在化妆品中的功效例如美白、抗氧化和抗光老化等以及其在化妆品领域的应用情况进行总结,并对马齿苋在化妆品原料的开发应用上提出建议并进行展望。
中图分类号:
陶星宇, 胡轩, 吴同川, 郑飞, 越皓, 戴雨霖. 马齿苋在化妆品中的应用及功效研究进展[J]. 应用化学, 2023, 40(6): 820-832.
Xing-Yu TAO, Xuan HU, Tong-Chuan WU, Fei ZHENG, Hao YUE, Yu-Lin DAI. Research Progress on the Application and Function of Portulaca Oleracea L. in Cosmetics[J]. Chinese Journal of Applied Chemistry, 2023, 40(6): 820-832.
图2 马齿苋中的生物碱: (A)马齿苋中吲哚类型生物碱[8-14]; (B、C)异喹啉型和酰胺类生物碱[15-22]; (D)其它类型生物碱[23-25]
Fig.2 Alkaloids in PO: (A) Indole alkaloids from PO[8-14]; (B, C) Isoquinoline and amide alkaloids[15-22]; (D) Other types of alkaloids[23-25]
Compound category | Compound | Ref. |
---|---|---|
Phenolic acids | Protocatechuic acid, Ferulic acid, Gallic acid, Caffeic acid, p-Hydroxybenzoic acid, Coumaric acid | [ |
Vanillic acid, Salicylic acid | ||
Caffeoyl quinic acid, 5-Cafeoylquinic acid | [ | |
Syringic acid, Erucinic acid, Chlorogenic acid | [ | |
Oleraceacid B | [ | |
Fatty acids | Myristic acid, Pentadecanoic acid, Palmitoleic acid, Palmitoleic acid, Heptadecanoic acid, Linoleic acid, Oleic acid, Stearic acid, Arachidonic acid, Behenic acid, Lauric acid | [ |
Oleraceacid A | [ | |
Low molecular organic acids | DL-Malic acid, Limonexic acid, Fumaric acid, Aconitonic acid, Glycyrrhizic acid | [ |
Methyl malate, Dimethyl malate, L-Methyl citrate, 5-Dimethyl citric acid, L4-methyl malate, Benzoic acid, Succinic acid, Monomethyl succinate | [ |
表1 马齿苋中有机酸成分
Table 1 Organic acids in PO
Compound category | Compound | Ref. |
---|---|---|
Phenolic acids | Protocatechuic acid, Ferulic acid, Gallic acid, Caffeic acid, p-Hydroxybenzoic acid, Coumaric acid | [ |
Vanillic acid, Salicylic acid | ||
Caffeoyl quinic acid, 5-Cafeoylquinic acid | [ | |
Syringic acid, Erucinic acid, Chlorogenic acid | [ | |
Oleraceacid B | [ | |
Fatty acids | Myristic acid, Pentadecanoic acid, Palmitoleic acid, Palmitoleic acid, Heptadecanoic acid, Linoleic acid, Oleic acid, Stearic acid, Arachidonic acid, Behenic acid, Lauric acid | [ |
Oleraceacid A | [ | |
Low molecular organic acids | DL-Malic acid, Limonexic acid, Fumaric acid, Aconitonic acid, Glycyrrhizic acid | [ |
Methyl malate, Dimethyl malate, L-Methyl citrate, 5-Dimethyl citric acid, L4-methyl malate, Benzoic acid, Succinic acid, Monomethyl succinate | [ |
Product | Efficacy | Active ingredient | Name |
---|---|---|---|
Facial mask | Hydrating and moisturizing to improve skin dullness | The ethanol extract of Portulaca oleracea L. | Wingna natrual skin care (Hyaluronic acid series), Queeslive silk mask, Yaodurenhe hydrating moisturizing mask, DR plant prinsepia utilis soothing nursing essence mask, Rellet active carbon mineral mud deep cleansing mask |
Essence | Moisturizing, anti-wrinkle and improving skin dullness | The ethanol extract of Portulaca oleracea L. | Yinzhuang glod yeast esence, Shuminxin essential water for repair, Goko skin purifying serum, Missha time revolution the first treatment essence, Aeola rejuvenating micro essence |
Facial cleanser | Acne removal oil, moisturizing | The aqueous extract of Portulaca oleracea L. | Pechoin hydrating moisturizing cleanser, Hungchi amino acid skin-friendly cleansing milk, Herbettep amino acid silky foam cleanser, Shreda amino acid microfoam reparinng facial cleanser |
Facial cream | Improve sensitive muscle condition, hydrating and moisturizing | The ethanol extract of Portulaca oleracea L. | Biohyalux ha barrier conditioning crea, Purslane multi-effect ooze through cream, HAA astaxanthin decarboxy multi-effect small ceram, DR.morita fullerene polypeptide facial cream, Pomanduo moisturzing cream |
Pray | Cleanse skin, hydrating and moisturizing | The ethanol extract of Portulaca oleracea L. | Kophenix purslane conditioning spray, Wingna portulaca oleracea soothing moisturizing spray, Jumia moisturizing and repairing spray, Reveda portulaca oleracea repairing spray, Joekasta creamide purslane facial mist, DRpurslane soothing repairing moisturizing spraym |
表2 马齿苋活性物质美容产品
Table 2 Cosmetic products of the active ingredient from PO
Product | Efficacy | Active ingredient | Name |
---|---|---|---|
Facial mask | Hydrating and moisturizing to improve skin dullness | The ethanol extract of Portulaca oleracea L. | Wingna natrual skin care (Hyaluronic acid series), Queeslive silk mask, Yaodurenhe hydrating moisturizing mask, DR plant prinsepia utilis soothing nursing essence mask, Rellet active carbon mineral mud deep cleansing mask |
Essence | Moisturizing, anti-wrinkle and improving skin dullness | The ethanol extract of Portulaca oleracea L. | Yinzhuang glod yeast esence, Shuminxin essential water for repair, Goko skin purifying serum, Missha time revolution the first treatment essence, Aeola rejuvenating micro essence |
Facial cleanser | Acne removal oil, moisturizing | The aqueous extract of Portulaca oleracea L. | Pechoin hydrating moisturizing cleanser, Hungchi amino acid skin-friendly cleansing milk, Herbettep amino acid silky foam cleanser, Shreda amino acid microfoam reparinng facial cleanser |
Facial cream | Improve sensitive muscle condition, hydrating and moisturizing | The ethanol extract of Portulaca oleracea L. | Biohyalux ha barrier conditioning crea, Purslane multi-effect ooze through cream, HAA astaxanthin decarboxy multi-effect small ceram, DR.morita fullerene polypeptide facial cream, Pomanduo moisturzing cream |
Pray | Cleanse skin, hydrating and moisturizing | The ethanol extract of Portulaca oleracea L. | Kophenix purslane conditioning spray, Wingna portulaca oleracea soothing moisturizing spray, Jumia moisturizing and repairing spray, Reveda portulaca oleracea repairing spray, Joekasta creamide purslane facial mist, DRpurslane soothing repairing moisturizing spraym |
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