应用化学 ›› 2018, Vol. 35 ›› Issue (10): 1227-1233.DOI: 10.11944/j.issn.1000-0518.2018.10.170333

• 研究论文 • 上一篇    下一篇

卵磷脂类液晶乳液的性能

周梦a,舒鹏b*(),冯蓓c,尚亚卓a*(),刘洪来a,李成亮c   

  1. a华东理工大学化学与分子工程学院,结构可控先进功能材料及其制备教育部重点实验室 上海 200237
    b无限极(中国)有限公司 广州 510663
    c莱博药妆技术(上海)股份有限公司 上海 200233
  • 收稿日期:2017-09-12 接受日期:2017-12-18 出版日期:2018-10-01 发布日期:2018-10-09
  • 通讯作者: 舒鹏,尚亚卓
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金资助项目(21476072);“中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金”资助

Properties of Lecithin Liquid Crystal Emulsion

ZHOU Menga,SHU Pengb*(),FENG Beic,SHANG Yazhuoa*(),LIU Honglaia,LI Chengliangc   

  1. a Key Laboratory for Advanced Materials,School of Chemistry & Molecular Engineering,East China University of Science and Technology,Shanghai 200237,China;
    bInfinitus (China) Company Ltd,Guangzhou 510663,China
    cLB Cosmeceutical Technology Company Ltd,Shanghai 200233,China
  • Received:2017-09-12 Accepted:2017-12-18 Published:2018-10-01 Online:2018-10-09
  • Contact: SHU Peng,SHANG Yazhuo
  • Supported by:
    Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.21476072), the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities of China

摘要:

以卵磷脂为主乳化剂制备了一款液晶乳液。 该乳液在皮肤上具有良好的稳定性能,在皮肤表层停留6 h仍能保持完整的液晶结构,克服了一般液晶乳液中液晶织构无法在皮肤上长时间停留的问题。 液晶结构在皮肤温度范围内具有较高的稳定性,可为液晶乳液其他性能的发挥提供条件。 基于此,我们采用体外称重法研究了液晶乳液的锁水性,发现液晶乳液锁水性能明显优于传统乳液,实验7 h后仍能保持原有水分总质量的50%;体外透析实验证实,液晶乳液表现出显著的缓释性能且能释放完全,7 h后目标分子(水杨酸钠)释放率可达96%;耐温性能研究表明,液晶乳液耐高温性能及低温冻融性能优良,且温度对乳液中层状液晶的影响是可恢复的;采用离心法、高低温循环和高低温长时间(3个月)放置的方法探究了乳液储运稳定性,结果表明,液晶乳液产品储运稳定性极佳,便于实际的应用和储运。 该研究不仅可为开发多效的高端化妆品提供必要信息和参考数据,而且有望拓展卵磷脂类液晶乳化剂体系的应用范畴。

关键词: 卵磷脂类乳化剂, 层状液晶, 乳液性能, 护肤乳液

Abstract:

A kind of liquid crystal emulsion was prepared with lecithin as the main emulsifier. The emulsion has good stability on the skin. The whole liquid crystal structure can be maintained for 6 hours on the surface of skin. It overcomes the problem that liquid crystal texture cannot stay on the skin for a long time in general liquid crystal emulsion. Liquid crystal structure has a high stability near skin temperature. It can provide conditions for other performances of liquid crystal emulsion. The water locking properties of different emulsions are measured by in vitro weighing method and the water locking property of liquid crystal emulsion is better than that of traditional emulsion. There are still fifty percent of the total water contents after 7 h. The results of dialysis experiments in vitro confirm that the liquid crystal emulsion has a remarkable slow-release property and can be released completely. The release ratio of target molecule is up to 96% after 7 h. It also shows that liquid crystal emulsion has excellent temperature resistance and low temperature freeze-thaw properties. The effect of temperature on the lamellar liquid crystals in emulsion is recoverable. The storage and transportation stability of emulsion is studied by the centrifugal method, high and low temperature cycle and placement under high and low temperature for 3 months. It shows that liquid crystal emulsion products have excellent storage and transportation stability. It is convenient for practical application and storage and transportation. The study not only provides necessary information and reference data for the development of multi-effect upmarket cosmetics, but also expands the application category of lecithin liquid crystal emulsifier system.

Key words: lecithin emulsifier, lamellar liquid crystals, emulsion properties, skin care emulsions